![Online stereogram reader](https://loka.nahovitsyn.com/13.jpg)
![online stereogram reader online stereogram reader](https://www.pouted.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/Stereogram_Tut_Highlight.png)
so if you print, for example, an 8x10 of a parallel view 3D image, you're not going to be able to view it without splitting up the print (overlapping it so that the 3D part is no more than 4 to 5 inches apart) and/or using mirrors. But that point is moot anyway because you're not going to get your eyes to diverge. Putting a card perpendicular to the screen at your nose doesn't make sense either because the card would have to extend almost all the way from your nose to the screen to block out the other side. Lots of people can cross their eyes but I've yet to find anyone who can diverge them. You cannot freeview any parallel image at a scale larger than about 5 inches across (2.5 inches wide for each left/right image) because regardless of how far you sit from the print, your eyes would have to diverge in order to see the 3D effect. Your left eye then can only see the left image, your right the right image. You can view the parallel images at large scale, by putting a sheet of card perpendicular to the screen/print to your nose. Apparently there are different methods shown on U-tube, for example. I suppose these days you'd refresh the screen with the two images in synch with some lcd glasses.
![online stereogram reader online stereogram reader](http://www.stereofotogruppen.se/docs/012_Download/K3Dcad.png)
Making anaglyph prints would be fun, you'd need some transparency/image blending setting, else you would see the top print only, with a fringe of the bottom print. A lens filter is probably simplest, since you can use the same filter in your viewing glasses. For anaglyphs you can either use colour filters over the lens, or apply the filter afterwards in post. It worked fine, but in the end the novelty wore off. I bought a couple of cheap p&s's, and made a bracket to take both, at adjustable positions, wired a push button switch into both cameras to fire them at the same time. I got sort of interested in enhancing the 3d effect by moving the camera distances further, and printing at different overlaps. I used to make anaglyphs a few years back. It depends on the subject but probably about an eight inch separation would be a good starting point. The easy way is tripod mounted, and move the tripod sideways for the second image. The problem with that is the fact that you must display the side-by-side images no larger than about the size of a business card (total width) to easily be able to get the effect and anything larger than about 4 inches across is physically impossible for that method.įwiw, you can take 3d images with a normal camera of static subjects. That's similar to how you used to view those stereogram books that were popular in the early 90's where you relax your eyes and focus at a distance.
![online stereogram reader online stereogram reader](http://info.thinkfun.com/hs-fs/hubfs/blog/Optical%20Illusions/TFStereogram2.png)
The other method for freeviewing is parallel (sometimes called relaxed) view. Only downside is some eye strain but once you get used to it, it is minimal and the eyestrain goes away almost completely. 3D (stereo) viewers are available for much smaller prints but once you get used to the crossview method, nothing beats it. While it seems to be the most difficult method to teach (and I'm not sure everyone can even BE taught), I find the cross-view method far better than any other method for viewing 3D photos because you can print much larger photos (8x10 or larger) and freeview them on a regular sheet of photo paper with no viewer or tools. So far, I've found that less than 20% of people are able to see the depth effect. I'm interested in how many people can actually achieve the cross-view 3D viewing.
![online stereogram reader online stereogram reader](https://www.bestshareware.net/download/img7/stereogram-explorer-big.gif)
One thing that the online instructions often don't tell you is that you should be positioned directly in front of the pictures (nose about lined up with the center) and that your head angle is important so tilting your head to the left/right slightly often helps to align the photos. Just follow the instructions on the page and then see if you can get the 3D effect on the practice image at the end of the article. The photo is displayed in the cross-view mode which means you basically need to cross your eyes a little to see it. I'm curious how many people can see 3D on the practice image at the bottom of the page below after reading the instructions.
![Online stereogram reader](https://loka.nahovitsyn.com/13.jpg)